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HOW TO PROTECT YOUR CAR?
How to drive in order not to destroy your car quickly - a short guide for owners of turbo-diesels and other turbocharged cars.
More and more modern cars are equipped with turbocharged engines. This is particularly true for diesel engines.
Almost 90% of cars with diesel engines, manufactured currently, are equipped with a turbocharger. The older models had a fixed geometry turbochargers, but since the end of the nineties of the twentieth century, they were replaced with variable geometry turbochargers.
In fact, from that moment started problems with their durability. Variable Geometry Turbocharger has significantly better performance, but requires more care, and a completely different operating rules.
Showrooms and companies selling cars are reluctant to talk about it, fearing a drop in sales.
That's why they have created a kind of conspiracy of silence on the subject. Sellers try to convince customers that their car is virtually maintenance-free. This means that you just simply tank a fuel and every ten thousand miles replace the oil, and besides that, you do not have anything else to do. Just hop on and go. Unfortunately, this is not true, and despite aggressive advertising, from the time when an apple fell on Newton's head, the rules of Physics have not changed.
I will try in a few sentences to identify a few principles of modern turbo diesels use.
RULE 1 - Gently after starting
Right after starting the motor must not be subjected to heavy loads. For the first few hundred meters you should drive calmly, not to exceed 3000 rpm, and do not press the accelerator pedal more than to 1/3 of the maximum. This is especially true in the winter period, but even in the summer, when the car was parked for longer than a few minutes you should observe this rule.
RULE 2 - Engine must warm up
Full engine loads are possible only after reaching normal operating temperature, approximately 90 ° C and also after a few more minutes to increase the oil temperature, which is usually not displayed on the dashboard and you do not know its value.
RULE 3 - Turbocharger must warm up
Warming up the engine does not mean warming up the turbo! Imagine that the driver turns on the engine and leaves it idling for 10 minutes. Coolant and oil temperatures are already correct but the turbine is almost cold. Full load of such motor leads to immediate damage of the turbine.
To understand why this is happening is enough to know the structure and the general principles of operations of variable geometry turbine.
The vanes controlling the flow of gas, are located in the cast iron housing so tightly that the free space for movement is sufficient only when the vanes and the housing have the same temperature.
In a situation where the driver immediately after the engine starts will drive on full throttle, the hot exhaust gases flowing around the vanes immediately will raise their temperature, which will increase their volume and the disappearance of the clearance between them and the turbine housing.
This is because the mass of the blades is several hundred times smaller than the mass of the housing and they warm up much faster than the housing. Since when driving at full throttle the controller tries to set the maximum charge pressure, the vanes blocked in this position prevent reduction of pressure that builds up to such a high value that can damage the turbine, cause a rupture of the intake pipes or switch the car into fallback mode of operation and rapid loss of power, which is not pleasant or safe, especially when overtaking.
RULE 4 - Do not turn off until it cools down
Turbocharger operating temperature reaches about 800 C, and the rotor is rotated at a speed of 200 000 r / min. While driving turbocharger is cooled and lubricated with oil and airflow also improves the working conditions.
Imagine that you're rushing in your car on the highway and suddenly your partner shouts - "please, stop at this station, I have to have a cup of coffee!" Obedient to the request, you immediately press the brakes, pull up to the station, stop the car, turn off the engine. Then you rush to the store to get some coffee to quench their thirst. After returning to the highway, it turns out that the car works somehow worse, is little smokey - it looks like something is broken.
Why it mustn't be done like that?
Switching off the engine resulted in an immediate decrease in oil pressure ie lack of lubrication in the bearing of the turbocharger rotor, still rotating by force of inertia. If keep repeating several times such an operation, it will lead straight to the damage of the bearing. Stopping and immediate turning off the engine resulting in a lack of air flow in the turbocharger and at the same time also stops the flow of the cooling oil, which means that there would be a temporary high increase in temperature and overheating of the turbocharger. To avoid this, after performing a fast drive, you should not turn off the engine for 1 to 2 minutes. If you were driving calmly in the city, this period can be reduced to about 10-15 seconds - this is as much as needed to apply the handbrake, to switch the gearbox into neutral and to unfasten the safety belt.
RULE 5 - Be careful with everything what writes and says cars manufacturer.
When specifying the maximum speed of the car, car manufacturers forget to add that it's a momentary speed and trying to drive at such a rate, for a long period of time, has to end a motor failure. How long can you drive at top speed? Good question. I think a few kilometers in the summer should already be enough to have shown symptoms of overheating the engine. It is worth mentioning that it is not about the temperature of coolant, which can still be normal.
It is assumed that a constant speed, that is, the one with which the car can drive all the time without fear of damage, is approximately 15-20% less than the maximum speed given by the manufacturer. So if the manufacturer states that the top speed is of 200 km per hour, it means that for a longer time you can drive about 160-170 km per hour.
RULE 6 - Take good care of your car
It is mainly about the application of good oils and their regular replacement - every 10-15 thousand kilometers, especially when the car is mainly used in the urban cycle. At the same time change the air filter and also ask a mechanic to drew attention to the possible intake system leaks and oil spills.
At first reading of this text, it seems that adherence to these recommendations is extremely difficult and annoying, but I can guarantee that it is not.
If we implement them, the drive will be nice, and the car will reward us with trouble-free operation for many years.
This text is mainly dedicated to the owners of the new turbodiesels, but it certainly would not be against if these rules would be applied during the operation of all types of cars.
This text was written by Engineer Andrzej Godula
CR, CR-2 OR CR-3?
Chip CR is the first version, released by our company on the European market in 2005. It was a chip with technology a few steps ahead of the competition. Much higher than today was then the unit price. After some time some competitors have copied our technology, which unfortunately was not properly protected and began producing counterfeit products in nicer housing, such as aluminum, with a nicer label. Unfortunately, inside was a system of poor quality because it is hard to manufacture, in that price range, the electrical system of good quality, and to this nice housing, colorful box from thick cardboard, etc. - as it generates high costs. They bet on housing and the box, but we prefered to look after the quality of the electrical system, which is the heart of the chip.
Chip on the case has a built-in power control with a " screw" and the LED indicating operation of the device, which tells us what is happening at the moment with the device - what is the mode. The LED can flash red, orange, green, or lit permanently. When after installation the LED flashes red, we know that the device is properly connected.
The main electric system in the chip is the control unit EPROM - this is a single-recording IC. It means, that during the production of the chip in our factory in Warsaw, on the EPROM is saved, prepared by our programmer, a new map, and you can not change it.
Map is written for a group of cars with similar engine. For example, for the Renault Laguna 1.9 DCI is one map, no matter whether the model of the car has 100, 120 or 150 bhp. The adjustment between these models you perform, using the previously described "screw", turning to the left or right - this is exactly as described in our instructions supplied with each device.
The processor installed in the chip, is a model that was the most interesting proposal for 2005.
Chip CR-2 is produced since 2011. It has a completely different structure of the electrical system, than chip CR, although outside they look very similar. Just like in its predecessor, the whole system is placed on the PCB in SMT technology, but the components radically differ from the previous version. Chip CR-2 has processor several times more efficient than this in the chip CR - processor is faster and has better cooling. As a result, faster converts received signals, which, after a change sends to the car's computer – ECU.
Chip CR-2 as a novelty has built-in flash memory (which is something like the hard drive on your computer).
When we have combined powerful CPU and flash memory we created rewritable system, with the ability to removing and appending new combinations. Thus, for each model of motor map is now individually matched.
For example, in the CR the map was identical for the Renault Laguna 1.9 DCI 100, 120, 150 hp, but in the CR-2 Renault 1.9 DCI - 100 bhp has its map and the models 120 or 150 km have different maps. With this solution, each chip CR 2 matches the car more accurately and increase in power and torque is greater.
In the chip CR we could not apply any setting, which would be best for every engine, because in some cases could emerge injection overload error. We had to align these settings on a constant level to fit both the 100 bhp or the 150 bhp engine.
Another issue is the adjustment, which before was done by the screw. For CR2 we do adjustments on the computers in the office, after hearing the tips on what the customer wants to change in the car.
We have a lot of possible combinations - for example, we can more increase the low rotation and less the high ones. We can leave everything as it is, and only eliminate the turbo hole. We may change a little power - about 10% - and more work on the reduced fuel consumption. We can raise the idling rotations or raise the dose of fuel injected during start-up - if the car starts with problems. We may also increase the power to the maximum, in safe limits, for the car to become very dynamic.
Chip CR-3 is the same chip as the CR-2, however, additionaly we get in the set a CD with software and drivers, high-quality programmer to connect to a computer, and seven sets of wires - each with different connectors. You can change the settings yourself to suit your own needs. For long road trips the chip can be set so that fuel consumption will drop and the power will be increased slightly, and then on time when driving around town, the settings can be changed to significantly increase the power.
With programmer and a set of plugs CR 3 can be programmed to many different vehicles - i.e. to see how the chip will work in the car of our friend or in our second car. This is an interesting solution, since after the sale of the old car, we can reprogram the chip and put it into the new acquisition.
WHAT IT IS AND HOW IT WORKS?
Chipbox is a power module. It modifies the control signals and sensor signals outside the engine computer (ECU). It is increasing dose of fuel while increasing boost pressure. The effect is very similar to that of the chiptuning, but Chipbox does not modify anything in the car and in the computer's software.
WILL YOU BE ABLE TO FIT CHIPBOX?
Module assembly is a snap, you can do it yourself using the included manual containing pictures. It will take only a few minutes for every, even the least experienced driver. Mounting depends on the injection system, however is limited to connect the original plugs by method PLUG & PLAY to the injection pump plugs, sensor or common rail rails. You can easily unplug the Chipbox by yourself before you visit the service station or garage.
EFFECTS AFTER INSTALLING
Equipping your engine with Chipbox you increase both power and torque by approximately 20%. With the multi-control you can change the power settings, adjust the performance of CHIPBOX to your style of driving and the owned car. Fuel consumption depending on your style of driving can be reduced by up to 1 l/100KM.
CAN CHIPBOX HARM THE ENGINE OF MY CAR?
The answer is very simple. It can not damage any engine. Chipbox is completely safe. Because the module fits a specific model, you do not exceed any standards provided by car manufacturers. We can increase the power even in cars still under warranty.
CHIP DIGITAL OR ANALOGUE?
An analogue chip was first introduced to the market by ProRacing in 2003.
Chips, both digital and analog, are made in SMD technology.
Systems are located on the printed circuit boards - all of the electronics are manufactured in our factory in Warsaw.
Chip has been built in order to be functional, but not expensive, so that each holder of four wheels could afford such a pleasure.
In 2005, a new programmer who works in the company until now, started designing devices for ProRacing
The automotive market is growing. In order to meet the technological development, and be a few steps ahead of the competition, we have created a new device - digital chip.
Year after year producers are manufacturing more and better cars, with newer processors and customers are becoming more demanding. So we built a more powerful chip, in a better heat-resistant casing (with wires arranged in a heat-resistant hoses), since there were already problems with customers who, due to unwise positioning the chip in the engine compartment, have caused a overheating of the wires. In the digital chip has been mounted a modern processor - the best in our opinion in that price range. The processor is fast and has small overall dimensions at the same time. It is also more resistant to shock, moisture and dust - so that the system on the chip, in combination with the epoxy resin guard, became almost indestructible.
The system does not dissolve at high temperature under the bonnet, which often occurs in low-cost chips from manufacturers, who place the electrical system
(usually of poor quality in aluminum housing, which heats up to high temperatures. In our opinion, this is a huge mistake, because in order to quickly disconnect the chip such as before entering the service, or make adjustments, you have to wait until the chip cools down to avoid burns. Circuit board breaks inside like wooden slat at such high temperatures and after a longer "hardening" becomes fragile as carbon. ).
Chip ProRacing faster converts a digital signal from the sensor to the ECU, so the computer gets the new data quickly and you can immediately feel better acceleration and torque. This is useful when overtaking. You aren't waiting for a split second before the car starts to accelerate when you press the gas pedal. Thanks to this you can see that the a digital chip cares more about your safety. An analogue chip is set at a fixed "linear value" - this means that no matter what are the engine RPM, the chip will raise the power evenly. Digital chip, depending on the motor rotation increases power accordingly so the torque increases more because we can afford more.
A digital chip has a built-in motor protection - this means that chip is set to a certain value, beyond which reduces processing, but still works (only slightly weaker). In the analog chip this problem is solved differently - in critical moments chip just completely shuts down and starts only when the engine operating conditions would return to normal. In summary, a digital chip always gives you more power while an analog chip sometimes, when it senses a signal overload, shuts down and the car turns on standard settings, as if nothing was mounted.
For example, in the engine with 90 hp, an analog chip will increase power to 110 bhp and torque by about 30Nm, and a digital chip will increase the power to 120HP and torque by about 50Nm.
Similarly, things look with the fuel consumption in diesel engines – with an analog chip consumption will fall by 0.2-0.5 L / 100km, while with a digital chip up to 1.5 l / 100km - here we see the big difference. A digital chip adapts itself to engine revolutions and decreases or increases the fuel dose, what an analog chip is not capable to do.
SO, WHAT TO CHOOSE?
If you just want to increase power a little and if you know how to protect the chip in the engine compartment - select an analog chip, but if you have the financial capacity and want something really extra, what will give you a real joy with the drive and will raise an envy of a neighbor, you should select a digital chip.